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Post by islandcocao on Jun 13, 2022 13:13:54 GMT -5
I've been using the same beans for more than one year; having made at least 20 batches. Eventually, the chocolate was excellent: silky smooth texture, chocolatey flavour with red berry undertones. We used the chocolate with inclusions and without, all of which were fully satisfying. Then we received a new 20kg bag of beans from the same supplier. Beans were roasted using the same established process. The chocolate was terrible. Minimal berry flavour, bitter chocolate, and a strong chalky/pasty mouth feel. Acknowledging that beans change slightly from harvest to harvest, roast time was altered. Still, chocolate outcome was nearly the same. Then we roasted again with different settings. This roast eliminated all berry flavour, altered the chocolate so it was a stronger cacao flavour, and it remained chalky. For each of the three roasts, the outcome was not a slight change in taste; it was considerable, and entirely negative. The variables remained mostly the same, i.e., how we sort, crack, winnow, refine and temper. The only variable changed was roast time and temp; and only after our initial roast (which we had used many times previously with excellent results) turned out poor chocolate. We use 3 ingredients: cacao beans, cacao butter and cane sugar. Of note, nibs were tasted post-roast and there was much variability, i.e., some nibs tasted fine; others were extremely bitter and soft. Our best guess is that the bag of beans is 'off'. Has anyone else experienced:
1. Chalky / pasty mouth feel? If so, do you know the cause?
2. Substantial change in bean flavour and/or texture from one harvest to the next (assuming same country origin / farm origin)?
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Post by Sebastian on Jun 14, 2022 17:08:19 GMT -5
Unless you are in *direct* control of your cocoa bean supply chain - chances are quite high that your going to get this type of variability. Most cocoa farmers (actually, most people in general) have a deficit of knowledge on what drives consistency in their processes - and if re-sellers aren't confident of how to ensure their suppliers (ie the farmers) have process control, then it's a crap shoot. In addition, there's a huge amount of variability that can be introduced in the shipping / transportation process - so if those in control of those processes don't understand what the drivers of variability are (and how to control them - and ARE controlling them) - then what you end up with his batch to batch variability.
I can't see a pathway that poor post harvest control would result in chalky results - but pasty could be a moisture issue, and frankly it may be an issue on your end (it's hard to tell from here).
Bean flavor , based on what you describe - is definitely an issue at the point of fermentation, drying, or transit.
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Post by islandcocao on Jun 18, 2022 9:58:20 GMT -5
Thanks Sebastian. Really helpful information.
As a small chocolate maker intending to launch in the next few months, and without the financial means to deal directly with farmers, I have no choice but to deal with organizations whose business it is to import beans and sell to chocolate makers. I've been doing this for 18 months now with no cacao bean issues (currently, I use two suppliers based in Canada). Still, I'm glad I'm learning this now, before starting to sell to the public.
I'm thinking my only way to minimize problems like this is to incur the expense of buying the same bean twice: first, purchase a small amount of beans of a particular lot, make chocolate / noting results; second, if the beans are satisfactory, then purchase a large amount. Any thoughts in this regard?
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Post by Sebastian on Jun 19, 2022 11:19:26 GMT -5
Doing so relies on your vendors experience. if this is how you're going to make your living - I'd make sure you have confidence that they are indeed experts in their field and have both suitable understanding as well as process controls in place to meet your needs. What you're likely to find is many will project a high degree of confidence and have a low amount of understanding, and as a result it's not likely that you'll be able to eliminate the risk. Some resellers are much better than others. You may be able to mitigate it somewhat by agreeing to robust specifications in conjunction with preshipment samples, but if you're just getting started and have low volumes, that may be a point of contention with your vendors (or may not be, but worth asking). If they are willing to do preshipmenet samples, I'd focus on a sampling plan to avoid them simply scooping a cup of beans out of the top of the first bag they open - that's not going to be anywhere remotely near a representative sample.
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Post by mark on Jun 19, 2022 19:31:13 GMT -5
Hah, I love that phrase about projecting a high degree of confidence while having a low amount of understanding, Sebastian. That is something I've encountered in many different fields outside of chocolate (management consulting in particular).
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Post by Sebastian on Jun 23, 2022 5:39:34 GMT -5
Ha! I see you also have met the McKinsey, Bain, and Alix Partners band of brothers!
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