nat
Neophyte
Posts: 19
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Post by nat on Apr 24, 2011 6:09:43 GMT -5
Ben and RQute,
We were able to run a dimmer switch on a vacuum no problem. I don't think it decreases the speed per se but rather decreases the torque, essentially reducing the air column that it pushes. Granted this was not a shopvac, but I'm pretty sure shopvacs don't have different motors from mere mortal vacuums, they are just more powerful, so it should work.
I think when you say 1100 va, that's a Kiwi way of saying 1100 Watts given that Watts = Volts * Amps, and yes, you should match the dimmer to the watts or it could easily overheat.
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Post by feedme on Apr 25, 2011 4:58:17 GMT -5
Yes thanks for that nat, I've got the parts for the motor controller now and should be testing it out in the next couple of weeks. I got a 2000 watt dimmer to control my 1100 watt Vac.
Finger cross
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Post by oaxacalote on Apr 26, 2011 12:37:32 GMT -5
Yes, a dimmer definitely works. I'm wondering if a dimmer or air valve is more efficient in the long-term. Is the dimmer actually saving electricity? And what's the likelihood that it's putting wear and tear on the motor?
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Post by feedme on May 16, 2011 2:08:51 GMT -5
Well I finished making my winnower today.... I ended up using my Vac to suck the chaff out and blow all in one with a 2000V dimmer to control the Vac. Works very well. I would say it sucked out about 98% of the chaff. The only problem im having is every time I turn off the Vac I have to reset the dimmer. Does anyone have an idea about fixing this?.
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Post by vmourou on Jun 24, 2011 6:06:22 GMT -5
hello all, when you are talking about nib recovery percentages is it based on total weight that of the roasted beans that you are starting from? It's my understanding that the husk about 20% of the total whole bean weight. If you are getting 80% nib recovery that means you are losing close to 0% of your nibs in the process (nibs that end up with the husk as waste). That's a perfect system. Please let me know your reactions to this.
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Post by itsallaroundyou on Jun 24, 2011 11:18:08 GMT -5
Its likely some of that 80% is husk.
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Post by Sebastian on Jun 24, 2011 19:15:55 GMT -5
you'll likely have nib in your shell, as well as shell in your nib. the shell itself should only be around 12-15% of the weight of the starting bean. don't forget you'll have moisture losses through roasting as well (you'll go from 6-8% to 1-2%), so you've lost 5% of your weight there.
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Post by lyndon on Jun 17, 2014 10:54:53 GMT -5
Well, I have been looking online for the plumbing pipes in Ben's photos in the UK, but the only pipes available in such large sizes (110mm) seem to be only for waste water/drainage so are not food-grade. Are these large sizes are just American thing? I can find plenty in sort of 30-40mm size.
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Post by itsallaroundyou on Jun 18, 2014 18:25:50 GMT -5
The black piping available here is not food grade, same as what you're finding. I think many people see the "NSF-DWV" stamped on the side and assume food grade, but that plastic is only certified for drain, waste, and vent applications. I think schedule 40 piping is suitable for potable water, so perhaps search for that and you might get some larger sizes (though I also had a problem finding the larger diameter sizes here in the US). Because my health inspectors are very strict, I ended up building one from the ground up with suitable materials (not piping).
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Post by lyndon on Jun 20, 2014 4:12:58 GMT -5
I've decided to go with a 1500mm x 100mm clear perspex tube instead that I found for sale in food grade. Will be more fun to watch it all happening too
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Post by christian on Aug 3, 2015 2:51:55 GMT -5
hi, i'm christian.I have a question. What would be the best rpm used in roller type cacao beans winnower/cracker
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