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Post by Brad on Mar 11, 2006 18:20:15 GMT -5
John
The motor in fact DID fit into the original housing, and in fact had room to spare because it was 3/8ths of an inch shorter than the stock motor and didn't have the fan on top.
With regard to the motor burning out, I chose one with a built in thermal overload circuit. If it overheats in any way (which includes stalling), it shuts off until power is cut and then restored. This was VERY important to me because I often leave the equipment running while I step out of the house to do errands.
In conclusion, I have a better, stronger machine, a much more durable motor, and it runs quieter and cooler. It's all good.
Brad.
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Post by Alchemist on Mar 11, 2006 22:38:15 GMT -5
1) I would be interested to look under the Santhacasing to see how the motor/fan is set up, but don't know how to remove the case. Would you be able to tell me how to do so? There's a way to take it apart here: How To Hack Your Santha
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Post by Brad on Mar 12, 2006 1:02:11 GMT -5
Alan;
The parts you are going to need are as follows:
Acklands: Motor: DMD 4M100 1/2hp blower motor Capacitor: as per specs on motor documentation
Radio Shack: Fan: 115v 32CFM Axial Fan (3.15" X 3.15") Metal Fanguard
Home Depot: 3 feet of 5/32's ready rod 12 5/32's nuts 4 2&1/2" 5/32 nuts and bolts (for fan mounting) 10 1/4" washers 2 1/4" nuts and bolts 3/4 inches long. 18 inches of flat steel with holes already in it (same location as the ready rod)
On the whole grand scheme of things, the retro fit is not hard and only takes about an hour and a half Here's how:
Unplug the machine and remove the top. undo the two bolts that hold the motor in place. Remove the motor and capacitor. No need to cut the wires. Just hold and pull firmly. they are all just twisted together. Remove the pulley wheel from the stock motor and set aside. Cut your ready rod into 4 7 1/2 inch lengths. There are 4 long bolts that hold your new motor together. You are going to replace them one at a time with the lengths of ready rod in such a way that there will be not more than 1/8 of an inch of ready rod sticking above the nut at the "wire" end of the motor, and a long length of ready rod sticking out the "shaft" end. THERE MUST BE A NUT AT BOTH ENDS OF THE MOTOR KEEPING THE MOTOR CASING SNUG. When done this you will have 4 long pieces of ready rod sticking out at the shaft end of the new motor. These you will use to mount your motor to your new mounting brackets, which are bolted to the existing motor brackets. You're almost done. Cut two lengths of your flat steel so the last hole on each end fits your new motor mount bolts (ready rod on new motor). You may have to grind down the flat steel a bit in the middle because the center vibration ring on the motor gets in the way. Using your two 1/4 inch nuts and bolts, bolt the flat steel to the existing motor mounts. DO NOT USE A WASHER ON THE TOP OF THE BOLT, as you won't be able to get a small wrench in later to tighten when you adjust the belt tension. Measure and cut your motor shaft so when the motor is in place you can still slip a belt underneath it. You only get one crack at this, so MAKE THIS MEASUREMENT 3 TIMES 3 DIFFERENT WAYS TO BE SAFE. Attach your pulley wheel to the new motor shaft. Using 2-3 washers on each length of ready rod, to add space between your "new" motor mount and your motor, mount your motor, and tighten down with one washer and 5/32 bolt on each length of ready rod. With your motor now in place, hook up your capacitor. This is also very easy. THere are two brown wires on the motor. Clip one to each pole on the capacitor. It doesn't matter which. You can use the existing capacitor clip to hold your new capacitor (new ones are quite a bit smaller). Cut a hole in the top of your plastic Santha Motor case, and mount the fan (outside, blowing down). Make sure it is right in the middle, as the fan magnet is the same size as the center pole of the motor, so the fan blades will push air perfectly through the end vents on the motor. Connect your wires. You must use the fastest speed on the motor if you want the drum to spin the same as before. It also gives you the most HP. Ignore the other wires unless you want to add a switch. Give it a try. The fan should run only when the motor is on. If the motor just hums, you forgot to connect your capacitor.
I've given quite a bit of detail here, and it may sound rather daunting, but the truth is, all you need is a screw driver, and home jig saw with a metal blade, and a few small wrenches - oh, and some electricians tape to match your wiring with the wonderful job done by Santha!
Hope this helps.
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Post by Brad on Mar 12, 2006 1:06:03 GMT -5
A couple of additions:
The hole you are going to drill in the top of your santha cover is the same as john's in his pictures. The guard you are going to use is the same as well. The only difference is that there will now be a fan on the top with the guard in place.
This fan drives enough air down through the motor that no extra holes in the case are necessary, and you can physically feel air flow out the bottom vents in the case.
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Post by Brad on Mar 12, 2006 1:28:37 GMT -5
Please also see my comment in the Conching section with regard to the use of the Champion Juicer.
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Post by Alan on Mar 12, 2006 11:42:10 GMT -5
I've given quite a bit of detail here, and it may sound rather daunting, but the truth is, all you need is a screw driver, and home jig saw with a metal blade, and a few small wrenches - oh, and some electricians tape to match your wiring with the wonderful job done by Santha! Hope this helps. Dear Brad, I have a screw driver and wrenches, and can buy a jig saw with a metal blade with no problem, but you mentioned grinding down the flat steel. What did you use for that? Though I probably won't make the changes until/unless I run into any problems with the Santha--as it is running just fine now--I would like to know what to expect, and your posts have helped greatly with that. Thanks again, Alan
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Post by Brad on Mar 12, 2006 13:04:38 GMT -5
Alan;
Those are all the tools you need. I used an angle grinder, but you can also use your jigsaw with the metal cutting blade.
Glad I could help.
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Post by sugaralchemy on Mar 18, 2006 22:51:23 GMT -5
For those interested... the replacement arrived. I thought we had agreed I would be shipped one with the modified cover, but what I got had the regular cover. Not a big deal, I swapped the covers without incident. Interestingly, the new one had washers on the screws, while the old one did not have washers. I also ran my previous cover through the dishwasher and it looks awesome. (I would encourage others to consider doing this from time to time, as chocolate can get all over the place and into cracks that are otherwise hard to clean... just be sure NOT to use the high temperature wash or heat dry!) The new base motor looks just like the old one, except all the fan blades are fully intact.
The santha is now happily running now, without the maddening clicking noise.
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Post by Alan on Apr 10, 2006 21:18:26 GMT -5
Dear Brad,
I'm trying to track down the parts I need. Going by what you said, I think that this is the motor you used: Acklands - Grainger Catalog part Number:
However, I don't see on the specs that it has a "thermal overload circuit." Could it have changed?
Also, the specs say that I need a "2GE76" capacitor, but I can't seem to find the item at Ackland's...do you know which section it would be under?
Thanks again for these great instructions.
Alan
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Post by Brad on Apr 11, 2006 0:52:52 GMT -5
Alan;
The motor has auto thermal protection. It is primarilyt designed to be used as a fan for a furnace or overhead shop heater, so thermal protection must be built in. If you walk into any electrical supply shop or even Radio Shack you can pick up the capacitor if you give them the motor specs you've provided. It's a standard 5 Milli amp capacitor (5M003).
Make sure you have the fan on the top blowing the air DOWN through the motor. These motors are designed to be cooled with air flow through them. Pulling the heat out of the case and pushing it out the top will not guarantee this.
Also: once the motor is in place, make sure the belt is as tight as you can get it without bending the metal frame holding everything in place.
While you still won't be able to just "dump" everything in the machine cold, at least it will grind the nibs, won't overheat, and you won't have to stand there for 1/2 hour "helping" it turn. You'll be very happy you made this change. It even runs quieter.
Brad.
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Post by Alan on Apr 11, 2006 7:06:19 GMT -5
Dear Brad,
So, it won't let me order on line from the US. The site says that there are some American distributors of Acklands products, but I have to call them today to find out where. It doesn't say online.
Do you know of any American company that would sell the same types of things. It doesn't seem like just any hardware store would do.
I'll call today and see what the deal is.
Alan
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Post by Alan on Apr 11, 2006 14:13:12 GMT -5
Believe it or not I tracked down the motor, capacitor and fan today. I have them all. I'm making chocolate until tomorrow, but after it is done, I'll take the beast apart and start messing with things. I think I might need slightly different sized ready rod as the motor is made by a different manufacturer, but that won't be hard to figure out. Aside from that, I think I understand your instructions.
Alan
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Post by Alan on Apr 12, 2006 16:35:54 GMT -5
Dear everyone,
Doing all of these modifications to the Santha COULD be easy if you are saavy with this type of thing like Brad is. But it wasn't easy for me. I am not afraid to look like an idiot in the name of warning others to proceed with caution, though maybe I should be. My Santha is now non-operational. Why? I don't know. But I have had problems every step of the way, and now $150 later, I have a machine that doesn't work. Net loss: $400+. Net gain: the knowledge that doing this kind of stuff by myself is bound to lead to money down the drain. The non-tech-saavy user should beware.
Well, you know what they say....you live, you learn.
Alan
Edited to say: Alchemist John helped me figure out a way that I might be able to save my Santha and restore it back to its prior (factory) state. That'll save some money. ;D Edited further to say: Brad helped me figure out how I might be able to save the Santha and get the new motor running. Looks like I have some decisions to make.
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Post by Alan on Apr 13, 2006 14:34:03 GMT -5
Alright........ I have the Santha running properly. Brad helped me to figure out how to fix some things that I had messed up, and gave me some tips on where to find the proper drive-shaft pulley (don't try the above modifications unless you have procured a replacement pulley of the proper size first, otherwise all of your work will be in vain), and helped me figure out that I had wired something imperfectly. After finding the pulley at the, literally, twelfth store that I went to today, all is well. There is no bad smell coming from the new motor like there was yesterday and the day before, the power is great, the belt is tight, it runs smoothly and silently, and is super-cooled by the new fan. The only drawback from my perspective, but not Brad's, is that the rpm for the Santha bowl are lower than they were before. However, there is more power than with the old Santha which will be useful for grinding winnowed beans, so that is the trade-off. In other words, if you have a Champion and are fully happy with the set-up, then this modification is definitely not for you. The rpm on the motor that we have is 1075, but I think that they make similar 1/2 hp motors that run 1750 hp or something like that. That might be a future thought that would yield a more powerful and equally as fast Santha. Anyway, three days later, after multiple mistakes, and thinking that I would have to buy a new Santha, I finally have the upgraded Santha working. I have to say that after having finished it, it doesn't seem as hard to me as it did during the moments when I was really screwing things up. So, for those who are technically inclined, it should be fairly easy. For everyone else, like me, take your time and especially make sure you have the right pulley before you begin. It might not be easy to find. Or, maybe consider not making the change at all. It certainly, as John has pointed out, is not necessary if you have the Champion. Thanks to John and to Brad, both, for helping me out in my time of Santha-crisis. Alan
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Post by Brad on Apr 13, 2006 18:52:29 GMT -5
Hello all;
As an addendum to Alan's immediately previous message, I have a personal philosophy of using the right tool for the right job - which is why I did the upgrade. I too have a Champion but found that using it to make chocolate 1) Is a messy process 2) Wastes liquor 3) can create too much heat and burn the liquor (Been there done that) 4) is hard on the machine and it's components.
Also: Knowing the stock Santha is fully taxed while in use, made me VERY nervous about leaving the house while it was running. While I love chocolate, I wasn't prepared to be a prisoner of my own home for 36-48 hours while the thing did it's job and hopefully didn't overheat or stall out or start a fire.
That being said, the upgrade as Alan observed doesn't tax the motor, runs cooler, runs quieter and is well within what I feel are safe operating parameters to continue 24/7 unsupervised. Mine has now been going for almost 2 weeks straight with the upgrade and is no hotter, noisier, or worn than when I first turned it on with the upgrade.
On top of that, it's closer to a "dump in the ingredients and walk away" appliance than before. I can now make chocolate with simply a cookie sheet (for roasting), a measuring cup, and a scale. Super easy. Super clean. Super yummy.
With regard to the lower RPM (stock bin spins at about 120 rpm as opposed to the upgrade at 105 rpm), I have found no difference in the amount of time needed to grind the chocolate.
Glad you're up and running Alan. After you've had it running for a few days, let me know what you think.
Gotta go. There's chocolate out there to eat!
Brad.
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