|
Post by Alan on Feb 7, 2006 20:13:17 GMT -5
Dear all,
I have been reading Mr. Minifie's book called: "Chocolate, Cocoa, and Confectionery"
In it, he deals quite extensively with the issues of refining and conching chocolate. Based on this book, I gather that virtually all industry refiners work rather quickly. So unlike the Santha, they wouldn't have the chance to do any conching. But it seems to me, as I think John has noted before, that if one refines the chocolate for 12 or more hours in the Santha, that not only is refining occuring, but without doubt, there is conching going on as well. Of course, I don't know to what degree conching is happening, but it must be, especially since Minifie notes that the French Melangeur was originally used for "the complete manufacture of chocolate and incorporated the processes of mixing, grinding, and conching," and as these melangeurs were/are constructed of a rotating granite bed and rotating rollers moving across the bed, they are basically, as John has also pointed out, giant Santhas.
Minifie also notes that such melangeurs were heated underneath, and that during the conching stage, dark chocolate might be conched at a relatively high temperature of 160 in order to increase viscosity via heat and via evaporation of the small percentage of water that is found naturally in beans. This evaporation could also help to remove volatiles and unwated acidic substances more fully.
This makes me think that not only would it be good to have the chocolate liquor heated to 120, but perhaps even preheating to a higher temperature and then adding to the Santha would be useful. Also, it may be an interesting exploration to heat the mixture in the Santha every hour or so using a heat gun until it reaches 160.
This is something that I will explore personally. Please comment if you have any ideas about doing such a thing.
Sincerely,
Alan
|
|
|
Post by Alchemist on Feb 8, 2006 8:39:25 GMT -5
I am going to toss out two not very helpful comments, and a couple of cautions.
Although I am working on a heated Santha with Santha, it so far is simply for completeness. I have yet to produce a chocolate that is "off" that I thought would benefit from a higher temperature.
Something fellow Alchemist Frederick Shilling (Dagoba) noted to me once "So, you want to use this really great bean, with all this delicate nuance, and 'neutralize' it with a high conching'. He take was a lot of the higher conching was to even out flavors to a consistent point. I know some milk chocolate are supposed to be made at 160 F or so to create a phase change in the lactose, but so far, again, I am not feeling anything is "off" in my milk chocolates. Maybe that will change once I test a hot batch.
Second, there is presently conflicting evidence whether conching actually drives off any moisture. I can't point to the source at the moment, but one study actually showed the moisture content increasing, and that the original assertion was merely a hypothesis.
Finally, as far as useful goes, take care if you heat your Santha/chocolate. The seal on the Santha's walls and granite base are only good to 165 or so. That may increase with "chocolate" models, but be aware. 10lbs of chocolate all over the counter and floor would not be fun.
As far as heating goes, I would recommend putting the whole drum into a warm over to heat (cautious of the 165 F), or set up a heat lamp aimed at it, again careful not to melt the top or nut fitting.
And I will re-iterate - when playing with heating, this model of Santha was not designed for heat. It may tolerate it, but it may show signs of wear faster, so proceed with caution.
|
|
|
Post by Alan on Feb 8, 2006 9:51:21 GMT -5
Dear John, This is all great information. Thank you for taking the time to put in your two cents. If the current limit for heating the Santha is 165, then perhaps I don't want to approach that limit afterall. Thanks also for giving different perspectives on the ideas of heating and driving off moisture. Since I am getting these ideas from Mr. Minifie's book, and since as Sebastian has noted, a lot has changed in the chocolate industry since Mr. Minifie wrote his book, I guess I am still groping in the dark a bit (or a lot). I always appreciate the guidance that you give. I am still waiting on Mr. S. Beckett's two books, both of which have more current first editions than Minifie's book. So I am hoping that they, therefore, take into account new ideas, findings, and discoveries in the chocolate industry over the past thirty or more years. If this is so, then they will surely give me quite a bit more to think about. I'll just keep the heat gun on standby for now. Just in case anyone is interested though, Amazon has an 1800 Watt heat gun with a temp range from 120 to 590 for only $20: Grizzly Heat GunMaybe I'll experiment roasting with this thing. Or, maybe it will be useful during tempering if the bowl with the 1/3 left aside starts to cool too much so that I don't have to run back to the double boiler. Anyway, back to the subject, after reading the two Beckett books, I'll update this thread with anything new or interesting that I read. And like I said, as for right now, I'll stick with the 120 degree range for dark chocolate (or thereabouts) and keep my floors and counter chocolate-free. Sincerely, Alan
|
|
|
Post by Brad on Mar 12, 2006 1:26:44 GMT -5
With regard to conching...
Last night, I made a batch of 60% dark chocolate in my stronger Santha machine. I completely bypassed using the Champion, tighted the roller tensioner right down (I'm a sucker for punishment) and gradually dumped the beans into the machine, alternating them with melted cocoa butter. This afternoon I tasted some of the smoothest dark chocolate I've ever had.
This machine is now strong enough that I don't have to use the Champion Juicer any longer to create the liquor. Given what I've also read about commercial melangeurs, this machine is now as close to a home version of one of those as anything, and literally eliminates the need to conch with the Champion.
I know that some of you may have questions with regard to removal of the final bits of shell, and have asked my industry contact about this. His reply was that it will in the end be ground as fine as the beans anyway. In fact he made mention of a few european companies that grind everything down - shells and all - in the creation of their chocolate. Their rationale is that they would otherwise be unnecessarily wasting 1% of their raw product. He disagreed with this philosophy as he fealt the high percentage of shells altered the taste. He did however add that the small amount in a winnowed batch would have little or no affect on the final taste.
Hence, my conclusion that if you modify your Santha to have a higher HP (1/2), then you can eliminate cost, work, and mess, just roast, crack, and winnow the beans, and use them in that state when you need to.
|
|
|
Post by Sebastian on Mar 12, 2006 8:58:20 GMT -5
Shell won't affect taste (almost all of the shell is insoluable fibers and/or pectic products), but it will affect mouthfeel (it'll feel gritty, chalky, sandy). Also, it'll shorten the lifespan of your equipment. It's incredibly abrasive. Check out some of the specialty products from a certain west coast gourment chocolatier that was recently purchased by a certain mass market global confectionery company for an example of what relatively high shell 'feels' like in product. You'll want to select lots that are 1 yr to 6 mos old.
There are asian companies who are making 'whole bean' cocoa powders - what they're doing is grinding the shell, pod, pulps, and bean into a powder. It's a price play, as the product is much cheaper than standard powders, which fits with their current markets (asia, middle east, russia), but there's a trade off - the lead content is much, much higher (it wouldn't be legal in the US because of this), and the ochratoxins are off the charts (lead is mainly from leaded gasoline, which is still used in most of the producing countries, and various mycotoxins are simply all over pods, regardless of which country you produce in - they're usually not a problem as the pods are typically discarded - except in this case).
|
|
|
Post by Alan on Mar 17, 2006 8:49:19 GMT -5
Dear all,
It has just occurred to me that if one removes the top nut-cap on the Santha, the one that places downward pressure on the granite rollers, that the rollers will just, as John put it, chocoplane. In other words, rather than grinding, they will simply constantly mix the product. I believe that this will work perfectly as a conch if we want to conch beyond the 12-15 hours of conching/refining that takes us to a perfect texture. This means that we can keep the cap on for 15 hours or so, and refine as well as conch, and then for the next 60 hours or so, we can simply remove the cap, conching the whole time, without really reducing the particle size any more. As long as the humidity level in the room is relatively low, I would think that this should be completely feasible. The setup will require a heat lamp to keep the temperature as high as possible within the safety-zone for the Santha's seals (i.e., a bit below 165 F, perhaps within the 140-155 range) but that shouldn't be any problem.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this?
Alan
|
|
|
Post by Alchemist on Mar 17, 2006 16:48:27 GMT -5
Yes, I have a thought. Good idea, and one I think I had but never articulated.
As for the heat lamp, and conching, keep in mind that conching does NOT have to be at greatly elevated temperatures. It can be, but it can be just at 110 F. Milk chocolate conching is theorectically at 165 or so to cause a phase change in the lactose, but otherwise, it is as you see fit.
Another thought for adding heat I had was a turbo convection oven. I have one I want to play with, but have not yet.
|
|
|
Post by Alan on Mar 17, 2006 17:51:00 GMT -5
Then I guess that I should rename this thread: The Santha: A refining/conching/tempering Triple-duty-Machine. Alan
|
|
josh
Novice
Posts: 56
|
Post by josh on Apr 23, 2007 13:30:13 GMT -5
One question I have is why the obsesion with one machine. I know the quick answer is simplicity, but if you are trying to avoid cost of a conche, why won't a thermal blender (you can control the heat) or a simple kitchen aid with a heating element and thermometer be used as another cheap alternative? Has anyone else experimented with a thermal blender. In this process I used an attachment that it came with. The manual stated it was for whipping stuff so I figured what the hell. The attachment was like the kneeder for making bread, exactly like a kneeder execpt inverted and attaching on top of the blade. It sends a stream of chocolate up, mixing with air, when blended on high. Isn't this what a conch does. When I used the thermal blender for experiment I noticed a marked differnece in acity after only an hour and by two hours none of my friends complained! Mabey the action of the blender will aid in Santha development.
|
|
|
Post by Alchemist on Apr 24, 2007 13:58:44 GMT -5
It's not so much an obsession with one machine, but costs. That said, PLEASE give more information about the equipment you are talking about. What I list on the site is what I have discovered works. I have not tested everything, nor do I mean to imply this is the only way to do it at home. Only that this is what I have found.
Thermal blender? What is that? Can you supply some links?
As for the KichenAide, when I was first researching equipment, I spoke with them at length and basically said they would not warrenty their product with any kind of extended use (hours). With that piece of information, I didn't feel it was worth pursuing significantly as I didn't want to say "You can use {insert machine} for conching but it will void your manufacturer's warranty".
But please, experiment, innovate, and report back. THAT is the reason this forum is here. I don't know it all (ha, not even close), I have just given some tools, information and the begining of a path to follow.
|
|
josh
Novice
Posts: 56
|
Post by josh on Apr 24, 2007 16:50:53 GMT -5
Cool,
In the third world we get "industrial" machines, even kitchen-aid, so they do warranty. Never tell the warranty dogs you work with chocolate! Chocolate is the only seed that chews through stainless steel like butter (abrasive prop. at high pressures). Don't get me wrong, I could care less about the line, its just what I have to work with.
Also, the thermal blender seems a fit for me right now because the Santha doesn't do it as well right now and it is cheaper until it does. A thermal blender is exactly what it sounds like. Its German and probably doesn't like Turkish people and is powered by gummi bears? It has a plastic base with time, speed and temp gauges. The top is stainless steel and I don't know where the heating element is but it is very consistent (checked with digital and used to preheat for tempering too). If anyone else has one sitting under the counter please try experimenting with it. I think it was made for industrial, rapid soup making. Stay Human! Ill ease-mail you a pict John.
|
|
|
Post by chocdoc on Apr 24, 2007 20:01:03 GMT -5
I think the machine being referred to is a thermomix. It is a blender that heats. There used to be a North American heated blender, I saw one once at the reuse center. Thermomix site here www.vorwerk.com/thermomix/html/
|
|
josh
Novice
Posts: 56
|
Post by josh on Apr 25, 2007 0:10:08 GMT -5
Yep!
|
|
|
Post by Alchemist on Apr 26, 2007 10:44:47 GMT -5
Wow, nearly $1000. Great if you have one, but otherwise....
|
|
josh
Novice
Posts: 56
|
Post by josh on Apr 26, 2007 12:10:13 GMT -5
The mention of Mr. Thermomix was Alchemist R&D as to what conching really is or isn’t. Screw the mixer; it is only a tool in the evolution of home alchemy. Hopefully the idea behind it may prove useful to adapting the Santha in the future. Like the Santha, the thermomix is enclosed stainless steel. Unlike the Santha, it controllably heats and aerates. If these mods were made to the Santha then, I would guess it would conch. Heat, simple, use better bonding material for the bottom stone and add a timed heating element underneath. Second, aeration, the little plastic arm that trains the chocoflow needs to do something different. Another question arises too, is the pressure consistent for particle cohesion? Viva El Santha! Suggestions, comments, complaints?
|
|