Does anyone have a recommendation for how much hazelnut creme (%) to add to a batch of white chocolate and allow it to still temper? Been playing around with this and I am having a hard time getting a good flavor AND temper. I realize white doesn't temper hard, but I gave up trying to have the whole thing be hazelnut flavored and I'm now just doing a strip on the bottom of the bar with the hazelnut creme mixed with it. Is there a better way of adding the hazelnut flavor? I have been doing between 5% and 10% hazelnut creme to the chocolate (make it myself, just grinding down whole hazelnuts to a creme), about 8% seems to be the flavor I want. I have been adding it to the last half of the conching to make it smooth. Any suggestions? Andrea
It sounds like you're making something like a white chocolate gianduja. The issue you will get is the finished product wont set like normal chocolate because of the fat introduced by the nuts, it will set up softer and at a lower temperature. Typically a gianduja is made 1:1:1 with chocolate:nuts:sugar and then tempered at a lower temperature than chocolate (approx 27 degrees celcius instead of 30'ish).
The other thing you could try (which I have done in small batch recipes when just combining ingredients by hand) is add a little extra cocoa butter into the recipe to help firm it up (ie., chocolate + nuts + cocoa butter), but its not really a chocolate anymore - its more a gianduja.
Keep in mind that you need to carefully watch your non-cocoa fat content. Over a certain percentage and your chocolate will never, ever temper. White chocolate can contain a significant amount of dairy fat (non cocoa), and add to the fact that your hazelnuts are also close to 50% non cocoa fat by weight, you can quickly go over the limit and end up with a non-temperable compound.
One solution would be to make a white chocolate yourself, and use skim milk powder.
Either way, make sure you keep your non-cocoa fat % to less than 10% of the chocolate by weight.
I've done it in the past and was able to temper the chocolate just fine.
Isn't it also a possibillity to defat the hazelnut paste trough a coffee filter to lower the non-cocoa fat content?
I had thought about trying that, but the fat has a lot of the flavor of the hazelnut.
I think I am going to try adding less milk fat and more cocoa butter (Thank You gap) next time and see if that is what is going wrong. Until you mentioned (Brad) the total added fat I didn't even think about how much milk fat AND hazelnut fat I was adding to the mix. I probably was closer to 13-14% added fats. It does taste REALLY good though!